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We really like the mild version of this S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil - Spicy, so we hoped making it "spicy" wouldn't ruin what drew us to that other version. Let's check it out.

Main Flavor Elements
  • Garlic
  • Chili
  • Onion
Snapshot
  • Base oil(s): Corn, sesame
  • Solids to oil ratio: High
  • Flavor Enhancer: MSG IMP,GMP
  • Potential allergens: Soy, sesame, wheat
  • Storage: Refrigerate after opening
Our Impressions
  • Heat level: Moderate
  • Texture: Crunchy
  • Saltiness: Medium (105mg. per 5g.)

We really like the S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil - Mild version, so we wanted to see what a spicy take on it might be like. As with the other, the slivers of crunchy fried garlic really make the texture here. And other than the elevated heat, we thought everything else was about the same. Fortunately, the extra heat doesn't overwhelm, and actually plays nice with the myriad other ingredients.

On thing we did notice, however, was that the extra heat tends to negate the imaginary peanut flavor of the mild version. Still, we liked it, even though classic taberu rayu isn't supposed to be about the heat.

Ingredients

Corn oil, chili pepper, fried garlic (garlic, palm oil), sesame oil, monosodium glutamate, onion powder, salt, fried onion (onion flake, rice oil), sugar, chili paste (chili pepper, salt, rice), soy sauce powder (soy sauce [soybean, wheat, salt], dextrin, salt), ground sesame, disodium guanylate, disodium inosinate, tocopherols (antioxidant).

More Information

Brand: S&B Foods, Inc.
Style: Taberu rayu
Price paid: $7.49 / 3.88oz.
Country of Origin: Japan
Manufacturer website:
Social media:

This Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp - China is a separate version you may or may not find in local stores. Definitely not the one sold by Walmart. That version is soybean oil-based and has a somewhat different flavor profile from this one, a rapeseed oil-based formula sold in the Chinese market. It can be distinguished from the former by its lack of English labeling, which is only included by way of an added adhesive label. We got this one at a local Asian market that carries both.

Main Flavor Elements
  • Chili
  • Onion
  • Fermented soybean
Snapshot
  • Base oil(s): Rapeseed
  • Solids to oil ratio: High
  • Flavor Enhancer: MSG
  • Potential allergens: Soy
  • Storage: Refrigerate after opening
Our Impressions
  • Heat level: Low to medium
  • Texture: Flaky fried chili
  • Saltiness: Moderate (405mg. per 30gm.)

We weren't sure what to expect from this version formulated for sale in China. We assumed it would be pretty much the same as the US export version most likely to be found here. Perhaps the substitution of soybean oil in the US version would add some flavor element that a neutral oil such as rapeseed would not.

What we did find were more in the way of differences in texture and contributions to overall flavor by other ingredients. Basically, we found a little less onion, a little more heat, and a more apparent contribution from the soybeans. We assume the latter are fermented even though the label is non-specific. They are not the crunchy variety, so we'll stick by our assumption.

The texture also differs. The solids lean more to the flaky fried chilis and al dente fermented soybean. The diminishment of onion flavor seems directly related to a loss of most of the onion crunch as well.

One other notable difference stuck out: no added preservatives in this version.

The flavor may seem a little "off" if you're used to the US export version. They may seem muted by comparison. Surprising, as the expectation was the US version might be geared toward more of a generic, Western mass market sensibility. We thought, however, after a few separate tastings, that this version is just fine, albeit different from the more onion-forward US version to which we've become accustomed.

The question we were left with was, is the version that most in the US are familiar with not really the most authentic after all? And is this Chinese version truly the OG that Tao Huabi originally concocted? Even without those answers, we found there's much to like in both.

Ingredients

Rapeseed oil, chili, onion, soybean, MSG, edible salt, sugar, pepper

More Information

Brand: Lao Gan Ma
Style: Chli crisp
Price Paid: $4.59 / 7.41oz.
Country of Origin: China
Manufacturer website:
Social media: